Welcome
to the 8th wonder of the world ! The Mont-Saint-Michel, a rocky tidal
island, is close to the Normandy beaches and a mere four hours from
Paris. Currently located in Normandy, the Mont is also claimed by its
Breton neighbors. Indeed, the river Couesnon, natural border between
the provinces of Normandy and Brittany, changed its course through the
centuries and currently runs to the west. "The Couesnon in its madness
put the Mount in Normandy", is a local saying. The giant bridge
currently under construction to access the Mount, will force the river
to flow on the both sides of the islands. Both Normans and Bretons will
finally agree the Mont belongs to both departments! But today the red
flags with the lions which fly atop of the Mount belong to Normandy.
With
its medieval alleys, incomparable abbey and splendid bay, the
Mont-Saint-Michel is really one of the most beautiful destinations of
the world. Athletic walkers can circle the bay and climb the Mount in
one (tiring) day only. But the best plan is to divide your time at the
Mont in two days. Walks without guides in the bay are highly
discouraged, because of quicksand and swift tidal changes. The tides
change quickly and have been described by Victor Hugo to move "as
swiftly as a galloping horse". It actually moves at the speed
of
a walking man, the fastest tide in all of Europe here moves at one
meter per second.
The
Mount is 1km in circumference and 80 meters in height. Saint Michael
archangel, at the top of the abbey culminates at 170 meters high. The
Mount attracts more than 3 million visitors each year. It’s the second
most visited place in France after The Tour Eiffel and Chateau de
Versailles.
History
The
legends say that Tombelaine island, in the North of the
Mont-Saint-Michel was occupied first, and was named after Elaine of
Avalon, the guardian of the Celtic paradise of immortality, but Elaine
too became
mortal, after her union with a human knight. Legends say that she was
buried on this island.
The
famed King Arthur is said to have fought a giant there. The island was
an English base during many attempts to conquer the
Mont-Saint-Michel. Tombelaine Island was carved so that the
structures could not be used for a future English base. The
Mont-Saint-Michel itself was also called Mount-Grave (Mont-Tombe)
proves that these islands were always sanctuaries. This name came from
"Mons vel Tumba Beneni”: the Mount grave of Belenos, Gallic god of the
sun. It was then attended by druids.
A
third crowned island was also in the bay, the Mont-Dol, today included
in the grounds by the polders (close to the town of Dol). The Catholic
hermits made two sanctuaries on Mont-Grave in the VI century:
Saint-Etienne and Saint-Symphorien. It did not become
"Mont-Saint-Michel-in-danger-of-the-sea" before 708 by decree of
Avranches bishop, Aubert, following the edification of a vault of the
same name, which one can still see the vestiges under the actual abbey.
A manuscript of 10th century explains this history: the Archangel
Saint-Michael appeared in dreams several times to Saint Aubert, then
Bishop of Avranches, demanding that he build a church on the Mount.
Saint Aubert refused until the Archangel burnt a hole in the Bishop’s
skull. The church was dedicated in 708. Pilgrims
began to
come to the Mount from all over Europe. The population on the Mount
passed from 132 inhabitants in 1962 to 43 today.
The Mount
from A to Z
If
you want to avoid the tourist stores and traffic, turn right at the
exit of Pontorson after the bridge, which is at the top of the Main
road, and turn immediately to the left. The small road, which goes
straight, will take you along the peaks, through the villages of
Moidrey then Beauvoir. Two miles before the Mount the road takes a turn
to the left and joins the main road.
THE DOOR:
There is only one official entry to the Mount, made by three successive
strengthened doors (1) the door of l'Avancée (16th C), (2) the door of
the Boulevard with its canons, and finally (3) the door of the King,
his drawbridge and his harrow (15th C). The tourism office is on the
left inside the first door. The restaurant La Mere Poulard is on the
left after the second door. There are two large canons in the court
that were taken to the English by the Mont soldiers in 1434. From there
you can climb to the abbey either by the main street, or by the wall
and its gardens. From one side or the other, you will see a great
number of very old houses.
LA MERE
POULARD:
Annette Poulard made this restaurant legendary between 1873 and 1906,
particularly for its world famous omelets. In addition to the window
and decoration, La Mere Poulard sells small Breton wafers in the shop
in front. On the walls of the restaurant, many dedicated photographs of
stars and politicians are on display.
MAIN
STREET (la Grand Rue): The
shops for tourists are everywhere! It is impossible to escape the
snow-globes and plastic swords, the narrow alleys are very crowded. At
the top to the right of the street, the last store before the abbey
contains various religious trinkets and interesting books. The bookshop
inside the abbey also has some choices including posters, maps and
children’s books.
The
tourist trade has both modernized and unfortunately degraded the
interior of the Mont-Saint-Michel village houses during the 20th
Century. The village counts only a few actual inhabitants today. The
exterior of houses remains splendid, as is the reputation of the Mount.
About half-way to the top is Saint-Peter Church, parish of the village,
with a statue of Joan of Arc, beloved of the French, in front of the
door. Of simple styling, it was built between 15th and 16th century. It
contains beautiful statuary, as well as votive candles offered up by
the many loyal pilgrims. There is also a splendid silver statue of
Saint-Michael. Behind the church, the tiny cemetery and its narrow
paths are completely charming. The Mass is celebrated here everyday at
11AM (from December 1st
- Easter: only Thursday and Sunday). On Saturdays there is a vigil Mass
at 6PM. Other Masses are offered on top of the Mont inside the abbey.
MUSEUMS :
The
most important part of your tour is of course the abbey. On the Grand
Rue, there are a series of museums with discounted prices to visit
several or all the museums.
-
Historical museum (or Grévin museum):
old collections (weapons, paintings, sculptures, watches). Prisons,
dungeons, reconstitution of the oubliettes, tour of the 19th Century
which explores the Bay surrounding the Mont.
- The
Archéoscope: a multi-media spectacle which presents the
Mount history and its construction
Internet
site: www.au-mont-saint-michel.com
-
Maritime Museum:
video audio system which explains the phenomenon of the tides, the
dangers of the sand around the mount, and exposes the phenomenal plans
for the bridge and dam.
-
Tiphaine:
the home of the knight Bertrand Duguesclin: 14th Century house;
recounts the life of the Constable Duguesclin and his wife Tiphaine de
Raguenel (pieces of furniture, paintings, tapestries).
The
Maritime Museum is open from February 1st until the
end of Christmas holidays. Other museums are open everyday from
February 1st
to November 12 and during Christmas vacations. Reservations are not
required, but the phone is: 02 33 89 02 02 or 02 33 89 01 85
RAMPARTS: They were
built at the end of 14th and beginning of 15th
Centuries, whereas the English tried to conquer the Mont. During the
Hundred Years War, the English tried many times to occupy the Mont
Saint Michel. The ramparts are reinforced by 7 towers. They begin at
the main door of the Mount and go to the steps of the abbey. One can
also observe them from the bay surrounding the Mont.
The
Wonder (the abbey)
You
need 2 or 3 hours a least to visit it, as it accommodates more than 20
000 visitors per day in summer. Human guides and audio guides are
available in all the languages at the door of the abbey. In spite of
the tourists flood, the abbey is extraordinarily peaceful and keeps its
austere atmosphere transporting visitors into another era. The abbey
started to thrive in the middle of 10th Century. The original pre-Roman
monastery was replaced with a larger Gothic styled church at the top of
the Mount as well as many other buildings that were added in the 16th
century. The changing architectural styles coupled with the natural
rock makes the abbey visually and historically unique.
In
the 12th century there were about sixty Benedictines monks whose
illuminated manuscripts were known throughout all of Europe. The
copyist monks are known for their "lettrines normandes" and the
miniature paintings they created between 10th and 12th century. All the
vaults and arches turn your attention and lead your spirits towards
upward. The staircase is impressive and requires good legs! All the
historical architecture styles are present here, and some may have been
initiated here.
The
church, 11th Cent, in the form of a cross, measures 75m in length. It
was built partly the top of the vacuum, the architects having built
three crypts to support it below. A Roman abbey and another Gothic one
surround it. The cloister next to the church, with a view of the bay,
is certainly one of the most beautiful of the world.
By
summer (only), some night visits are available. The best time to go is
before sunset so you can experience The Mont during the changing light
and in the evening! (Information on the night visits: Tel.: 02 33 89 80
00 - email: abbaye.mont-saint-michel@monum.fr)
If you are on the Mount at night, don’t forget to see the deserted
lanes between the abbey and Main Street; the external illuminations of
The Mont are also very beautiful.
MASSES
AND RETIREMENTS:
Today the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem, a mixed unit monks and
nuns of the "charismatic" Catholic Church movement, are present on
site. High Mass is everyday, except Monday, at 12:15. Admission is free
for the Mass, appointment at 12:00 at the entry gate of the Abbey.
Laudes is at 7AM during the week (8AM Saturday and Sunday), vespers at
6:30AM appointments 10 min before each, at the Abbey gate. No public
liturgical office is available on Sunday afternoon and Monday. For any
information (retirement, reception of group...): Tel.: 02-33-58-31-71 -
Internet site: abbey-montsaintmichel.com
Around
the Mount
The
Bay of the Mount spans between the presqu'ile of Cotentin and the
Country of Saint-Malo (Cancale in the North-West). There you can see
the sheep grazing in the polders or taste oysters from the many oyster
culturists (those of Cancale being famous). The tidal waves curving in
the sand make fantastic patterns at low tide. Many guides are available
at the tourist office inside the main gate of the Mount as well as
inside the villages by the Bay. To walk or with horse: http://www.mont-saint-Michel-baie.com/
In ULM: www.ulm-mont-saint-michel.com/ (Photo
of left: IGN) If you want to stay several days in the Mont area, you
can also visit the castle of Bonnefontaine, in
the
town of Antrain (few miles south of the Mont). Americans can enjoy also
the castle of colonel Armand, Marquis de la Rouerie, in the town of La
Rouerie (south of Antrain). La Rouerie was a hero of the Independence
war, friend of George Washington, before becoming the founder of the
Catholic Britton army against the French revolution. There are also
several D-day memorials around the Mont.
-
Roasted with the wood fire, the salt meadow lamb sheep, feeding in the
polders of the Bay, is really the main specialty of the Mount.
-
Near the Mount, the village of Saint-James gave its name to a brand,
which gave letters of nobility to the clothing of sailors! The brand of
clothing has enjoyed incredible success; some stores are opening even
now in the USA! Charming for children and fashionable for adults, many
shops are around the Mont: in the entry of the Mount, in Beauvoir, on
the road just before the Mount, or directly in the village of
Saint-James (east of the Mount). http://www.saint-james.fr/
THE
DESANDATION: The
large access dam to the Mount was built in 1879. But the progressive
sanding of the bay created a fear that in a few decades, the Mount
would no longer be an island. The idea is to build a large bridge
allowing water of the river Couesnon on the both sides of the Mount in
order to drive out sand towards the sea. Work began in 2006. The dam
and the car parks will be destroyed when the project is completed it
will be advisable in the future to take a shuttle or walk to the Mount
from the coast. (Assembly synthesis of the future bridge by
mont-saint-Michel Project).
- NEAR
The MOUNT: The
mont-saint-Michel is frontier of Normandy and Brittany. On each side
you can discover small charming fishing ports and towns: as on the West
coast of Cotentin close to Barneville-Carteret for example. In
Brittany, the Mount is close to the pirate city of Saint-Malo (40mn),
and to the very beautiful Emerald Coast (cote d’Emeraude: Dinard,
Cancale, Cape Fréhel...). The D-day beaches are two hours east of the
Mount by car, just like the forest of Brocéliande at 2 hours in
southwest. The town of Rennes, current capital of Brittany, is one hour
away.
Hotels/restaurants
Luxury:
- The
Relay Saint-Michel (4 Stars). Best pick! http://www.relais-St-michel.com/
Traditional (and expensive):
- La Mere
Poulard: just inside the entry of the Mount on the left with its famous
omelets. (3 Stars) http://www.mere-poulard.fr/
- The
Poulard terraces are in the same category but with a view of the sea.
(3 Stars) http://www.terrasses-poulard.com/
These
three hotels with restaurants belong to "la mere Poulard"; Cafeterias,
fast food and crèperies less expensive than the first ones are all
along the Main street.
HOTELS:
All the hotels on the Mount are expensive. But there are many others on
the road to the Mont or in Pontorson, for less. For example in
Pontorson, all are under 60 euros per room, hotels:
- DE
FRANCE (2 STARS)
- THE
TOWER TOOLS (1 STAR)
-
L'ARRIVEE
- THE
LITHANA
Transportation
- By Car:
4 hours west of Paris. Take the highway towards Rouen, then Caen 1 hour
in the North of Rennes.
-
By Train: TGV leaves from Paris-Montparnasse or Charles de Gaule
airport to Rennes in Britanny. In Rennes you’ll have to take the bus of
the les Courriers Bretons.
- By Bus:
Courriers Bretons: www.lescourriersbretons.com
- By
Plane: Airport of Rennes, 12 regular lines from/to Paris and other
towns. Or Dinard for the sources of London or Jersey.
- By Sea:
in the ports of Saint-Malo, Granville or Cherbourg.
EVENTS: http://www.ot-montsaintmichel.com/manifestations.htm
