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RESTAURANTS
AT CAEN
Selection
of the Guides
Le
Bouchon du Vaugueux
12 rue
Graindorge
Phone :
02 31 44 26 26
Café
Mancel
Château
Phone :
02 31 86 63 64
Le Costa
32 bis
quai Vendeuvre
Phone :
02 31 86 28 28
Le Dauphin
29 rue
Gemare
Phone :
02 31 86 22 26
L'Embroche
17 rue
Porte-au-Berger
Phone :
02 31 93 71 31
Maître
Corbeau
8 rue
Buquet
Phone :
02 31 93 93 00
Le P'tit B
15 rue du
Vaugueux
Phone :
02 31 93 50 76
Le
Pressoir
3 av
Henry-Chéron
Phone :
02 31 73 32 71
www.restaurant-le-pressoir.com
Le Quatre
Epices
25 rue
Porte-au-Berger
Phone : 02 31 93 40 41
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Travel
Advice for Visitors
The principal cities are Caen and
Cherbourg, they are reached by train towards Paris or Brittany. Bayeux,
like the two preceding ones, have all the services of a true city and
is a very pretty town.
-
1 day : is a little short. You can visit the Memorial of
Caen for one half-day, then will be limited to the very close coast :
Pegasus Bridge, and the Big Bunker of Ouistreham. If you manage to do
all that a little more quickly, you can also visit the castle of Caen
and its free museums.
-
2 days : Caen (Memorial, Castle), Pégasus Bridge,
Arromanches (360°Museum, the beach), American Cemetery of the Saint
Laurent, Tapestries of Bayeux, Pointe du Hoc.
-
3 days or more : Sainte-Mère-Eglise, the Battery of
Saint-Marcouf (especially if there is a reanactment battle happening).
For more touring : the small
port of Barfleur and the City of the Sea (Cité de la Mer) of Cherbourg
is fantastic for any knowledge of the underwater world, and which will
charm children young and old.
- Americans
will be the most interested by Omaha Beach, Utah Beach, the
Cemetery of Colleville and Sainte-Mère-Eglise
- English
nationals should concentrate on the areas between Caen and Gold Beach
(Arromanches)
-
If you are Canadian,
you should go first to Courseulles-sur-Mer and the Museum of Juno Beach
which celebrates the memory of the Canadian arrivals there.
- French
will be able to remember General de Gaulle on this same beach of
Courseulles where a large cross of Lorraine marks the place where the
General arrived on the territory of the newly freed France. The museum
of Ouistreham also dedicates itself to the memory of the 177 French of
the Kieffer commando.
- The Normandy
Pass, which costs 1 Euro, will offer reductions to you on
the majority of the museums devoted to D-Day. Very useful if you hope
to visit several of them. It is on sale in these museums.
- Organized
tours : some are organized by www.normandywebguide.com
- Do not forget to buy, Biscuits Sablés, cheeses,
the apple-brandy Calvados, flambe quails, crepes, cider, oysters,
butter and caramels of Isigny, Saint-Jacques shells of Grandcamp-Maisy,
chew with mint of Bayeux, the demoiselles of Cherbourg, and, of course,
the tripes à.la.mode of Caen !
- Website of the Regional Committee of Tourism of Normandy : www.normandy-tourism.org
Marked by the Viking
invasion of 1020, the city has retained it's heritage in the XIe
century under the direction of Guillaume the Bastard, who will become
William the Conqueror. One can also see and learn about the
life of William the Conqueror on the tapestry of Bayeux (see below). He
built the castle to protect the city, and also the two abbeys. He
married Mathilde de Flandres in 1083, who is buried at the
Abbaye-aux-Dames, and William was buried at the Abbaye-aux-Hommes. Caen
became a target by various English invasions during centuries,
particularly during the Hundred Year war. The English with a
particular irony, destroyed all of the city while releasing it, in 1944.
General Montgomery believed
that capturing Caen is the key to the battle. He attacked the city on
the day after D-Day, June 7, 1944, lasting until July 1st, Caen was
intensively bombarded and completely destroyed. Some old streets remain
nevertheless in the capital of Low-Normandy (Basse-Normandie).
Beautiful churches are still standing and the castle of William the
Conqueror which dominates the city center includes the museums of
History of Normandy and the Beaux-Arts within it's walls.
Built by
William-the-Conqueror about 1060, the ramparts offer a beautiful
panoramic view of the city. Entry is free, along with its museums
(which host temporary and permanent expositions). Its keep was
destroyed during the Revolution, and some parts by the bombardments of
1944. However it is still a very beautiful place to visit, and its
museums are good quality. In the middle of the castle court is Saint
George church and, behind it, the Chess-board of Normandy. Both house
temporary expositions.
Lodged in the Home of the
Governor, and free to the public, it is possible to understand the
history of the Norman people from the past through the present with
interesting displays of objects, ranging from traditional lace to farm
tools. In front of this building, the small garden presents plants
which were cultivated in the Middle Ages.
Phone : 02 31 30 47 60 - www.musee-de-normandie.caen.fr
Located in the
modern part of the castle, and also free, it boasts very beautiful
painting galleries Italian, French, Dutch and Flemish of XVIe and XVIIe
centuries, with of Cosme Tura, Le Pérugin, Véronèse, Tintoret, Le
Guerchin, Giordano, Poussin, Champaigne, Rubens, Ruysdael, Rigaud,
Tournières, Boucher, Lancret, Tiepolo... Permanent collections
galleries house the richest art of provence in France !
Phone : 02 31 30 47 70 - http://www.ville-caen.fr/mba
Saint-Pierre
CHURCH
Just opposite the castle, it was
built in XIe century, but the current church is of XIIIe-XVIe. The
frontage is of XIVe. The Gothic bell-tower was rebuilt after the
bombardments in its XIVe style also. Outside like the interior present
mixtures of Gothic styles and Rennaissance. Do not miss the back by the
church, inside and outside.
(The
abbey-church Saint-Etienne)
Built by Willaim-the-Conqueror
between 1065 and 1077, it shelters his tomb (he died on September 9,
1087). Its mausoleum was destroyed by the Protestant iconoclasts in
1563. On his tomb, in Latin, one can read following sentence : "Here
puts back the invincible William the Conqueror, duke of Normandy and
king of England, founder of this house, which died the year 1087". The
towers were surmounted Gothic arrows in XIIIe century (height 80 and 82
meters). The Abbaye has a Roman nave, 56 meters long, it constitutes a
perfect example of the Norman Romance style. Each span includes 3
levels.
The mausoleum of Mathilde de
Flandres, wife of Guillaume (dead in 1083), was also destroyed during
the war with the Protestants, but one can still see her tomb there.
Dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the construction of the abbey began in
1062 to be completed in 1130. The frontage and the towers were rebuilt
at the XIXe. The crypt also presents many columns.
Right outside the peripheral
of the city to the North, it is the largest museum of Normandy
dedicated to the war (and the peace afterwards). Inaugurated in 1989,
it is necessary to count one half-day of your stay in the area to visit
it. Presenting mainly the Battle of Normandy, it includes many vehicles
and models, of scenes of reconstitutions and historical objects, as
well as videos. The visit continues with the Cold war and various rooms
devoted to peace in general and its craftsmen. Restaurant, coffee,
bookshop, memories...
- Phone : 02 31 06 06 45 - Exit 7
of the péripheral.
OTHER
ATTRACTIONS IN CAEN : At the south-western exit, one can
visit the Roman ruins
and the archeological site of Vieux-la-Romaine. 02 31 71 10 20.
Enchanted corn labyrinth
at Cambes-in-Plain (website),
or the Festyland Park
in Caen, at the Brittany Exit of Caen, which proposes attractions
around the topics of the vikings, knights and pirates... (website).
Measuring 8km length between
Ouistreham and Saint-Aubin, the 3rd British division of infantry
unloaded here, as well as the 177 French of the Commando Kieffer.
Pegasus is the code name
given to the operation to capture this bridge on the channel between
Caen and Ouistreham by a british commando of the 6th Divison Airborne.
A little after midnight on June 6, 3 seaplanes transporting about
thirty men, landed in silence less than 100 meters of the bridge. They
were directed by Major John Howard. Mrs Gondrée, owner of the cafe,
inform the English about the German positions (its cafe will be the
first released house of France !). The Allied forces gain their first
bridge here, costing 2 deaths and 14 wounded. The episode will be told
on film The Longest Day. The Weighbridge currently on the channel is a
counterpart, the original being in the park of the museum which is just
behind the channel, it celebrates the British heroes of this commando,
while presenting a life sized replica of a seaplane, various
collector's items and war machines.
Bénouville
One can visit the
neo-classic castle of Bénouville (you can view it from the channel),
built in 1769 by Claude Nicolas Ledoux.
www.cg14.fr/chateau_benouville
East end of the d-day
beaches, here you can see Sword Beach. Ouistreham comprises two museums
dedicated to the unloading.
THE
Grand Bunker : Museum of the Atlantic Wall
Measuring 17 meters
high, the Big Bunker was a center of control of the German shootings,
and it directed all the other bunkers of the zone. Scenes of German
life inside the bunker are reconstituted there as well as many military
collections and materials from WW2. From the top floor stage one can
see the sea through a German rangefinder used to analyze the position
of the boats. Above, there is a very beautiful view of the coast from
the platform of the bunker after climbing a ladder. In the court you
can observe a true barge for unloading troops restored for the film
Saving Private Ryan.
- Avenue du 6 Juin. Phone : 02 31
97 28 69.
The
Museum of the Landing "N°4 Commando"
Here you can see
the history and various historical objects related to this commando,
177 French who took part in it with the commandant Kieffer, there is a
model of the attack by the French of the German positions.
In Ouistreham you can also see
the church (XIIth century), the 38 height meters red and white
lighthouse. It is also from here the car-ferries for Porsmouth (U.K)
leave. You find there all the services of a pretty seaside resort.
In Hermanville or Douvres you
will be able to see British
military cemeteries.
RESTAURANT
- Selection of the Guides
Hotel
with restaurant le Beau Rivage 1 rue du Dr.-Charcot à Luc-sur-Mer
Phone :
02 31 96 49 51 www.hotelouistraham.com
Attacked by the 6th Canadian
division, this beach was the 2nd stronghold after Omaha. Sadly 50% of
the attacking troops of died there.
COURSEULES-sur-Mer
The Center Juno Beach,
housed directly on the beach of the seaside resort is dedicated to
Canadian soldiers who came to die on the beaches of Normandy. It is a
good size museum and hosts great memorabilia collections. You can also
discover here what life in Canada was like at that time.
Phone : 02 31 37 32 17
June 14, 1944, General De Gaulle
crossed the channel aboard French ship La Combattante. He landed on the
French territory on this coast, between Courseulles and Graye-sur-Mer.
A cross of Lorraine (his symbol) stands in between the two villages.
Just behind Courseulles, at
Beny-sur-Mer, the Canadian soldiers
who died in combat were buried here in a memorial cemetery (picture).
Nearby in the
back-country, you can visit several beautiful villages and castles.
- Crépon
: Church of 12th century and war memorial monument. The farm of La
Rançonnière is a very beautiful hotel and restaurant www.ranconniere.com
- Creuilly
: Castle of the 11th and 12th centuries. 02 31 80 18 65. Website
- Fontaine-Henry
: Wonderful Rennaissance castle with landscaped garden, it also hosts
an annual Renaissance festival. Website
- Tel. 06 89 84 85 57.
- Brécy
: the castle has an authentic garden of the 17th century, which may be
visited. 02 31 80 11 48
Below : Crépon, Creuilly,
Fontaine-Henry.
A total of 25,000 British
unloaded there, 413 died. It was not nearly as bloody when compared
with the other beaches. The goal of Gold, like Juno, was to take Bayeux
very quickly.
Arromanches-les-Bains
From
the cliff marked with a statue of the Virgin Mary, there
is a good view of all that remains of this artificial harbour. There
are no other places where you can see original traces of the unloading
on the beaches.
From
the top of the cliff, on the right side you can walk to...
Circular
Cinema 360 degrés
If it is a video projection of
real footage that can be viewed in the round. The film is well done it
alternates scenes of landscapes of yesterday and today. Most especially
there are scenes of incredible combat and distress. The stark reality
of war is so strong, you feel engrossed in the action.
Although the film is not bloody it is not recommended for very young
children.
- 02 31 22 30 30
Museum
of the Landing (Débarquement)
Located on Avenue du 6 Juin, on
the beach, you can see a museum which will teach you about all on the
unloading on Gold Beach and the construction of Port Winston,
with models, a film, collections of weapons...
Phone : 02 31 22 34 31
Longues-SUR-MER
A little further, close to
the charming port of Longues, the German battery still holds its
original guns.
Information
with the office of tourism :
02 31 21 46 87. Website
Tourist activities in Annelles : www.goldbeachevasion.com
World known for its
fabulous medieval tapestry, the small city is very pleasant
visit. It is a good place to lunch, stroll its old streets,
visit its cathedral or track the battle of Normandy, the capture of
Bayeux was a key element of the Allies victory.
Usually known under the name
of "tapestry of Bayeux", it is a must see for a first time visit in
Normandy. It is believed to have been commissioned by the half-brother
of William the Conqueror, the bishop Odon, in order to celebrate the
victories of William, the conquest of England in 1066 and its key
events, primarily the Battle of Hastings. This 70 meters in length
embroidery, it is technically speaking not a woven tapestry, but it
tells an incredible story about life in 11th century : with costumes of
its 676 characters, their castles, their religions and military
traditions... it also represents 202 horses and mules, 505 other
animals...
(Copyrights
photographs : Details of Tapisserie of Bayeux - XIè century - With
special permit of the City of Bayeux)
There is a film that
explains the design of the tapestry, and shows its drawings along with
scenes of knighthood, places and castles of the battles celebrated on
the embroidery. Visitors view the tapestry after the film in
numerical order like pages in a story book with a portable audio-guide
(available in various languages). The version for children is perfect
and makes the drawings of the tapestry come alive with history. Until
the end of the 18th century it was preserved at the Treasury of the
Cathedral of Bayeux, today it is housed in the Guillaume-le-Conquérant
Center which is dedicated in his honor.
It is open everyday with few
interruptions at Christmas and in the beginning of January
(see the dates on website). The entire visit lasts approximately one
hour.
Center Guillaume-le-Conquérant
- Rue de Nesmond - 02 31 51 25 50 www.tapisserie-bayeux.fr
- Images
on this page.
The entry ticket for Tapestry
will give you also a free admission (and reciprocally) to...
-
MUSEE BARON GERARD
Whose collections present the
inheritance of the city: beautiful laces of Bayeux, porcelain,
paintings of David, Boudin and Caillebotte...